Esles Between the Valley and Architectural Heritage
The beech forest and historic architectural styles give Esles two distinct, clearly describable sides. The Hayal de Esles lies where the valley narrows and rises to an altitude of around 500 metres. The centre of Esles de Cayón also reflects the area's history: it is listed as an asset of special cultural interest in the Pisueña Valley. When planning a stay, you can choose to focus on either the landscape or the architectural heritage.
Beech Forest, Waterfall and Spring
The Hayedo de Esles–Gamoneo circular route passes through the beech forest near the town centre and reaches the dam where the Gamoneo waterfalls form. On the return journey, it follows a path downstream alongside the watercourse, passing the Fuente de Don Jacinto spring before returning to Esles. The route thus describes not just a destination, but also a series of distinctive landscape features. The Hayal is notable above all for its location in the narrowing valley; on the circular route, the dam, waterfall and spring are the specific points of interest.
A walk through the neighbourhoods and lanes of Esles and Lloreda leads to examples of Cantabrian vernacular and aristocratic architecture. These include terraced houses as well as manor houses bearing coats of arms. The walk thus connects two architectural forms that reflect the character of the towns in different ways: the house as part of a row and the grand residence with its coat of arms.
Church, Hermitage and Historic Buildings
The Iglesia de San Cipriano in Esles dates from the 16th century. Its floor plan is in the shape of a Latin cross, and the apse is square. The tower was built from ashlar stone in 1920; the rest of the church is entirely whitewashed. Inside are three altarpieces, religious sculptures and a baptismal font. The church brings together a range of distinctive details: its floor plan, the later-dated tower architecture and its interior furnishings.
The Ermita de San Vicente is the only surviving evidence of the 9th-century Monastery of San Vicente de FĂstoles. In the Pisueña Valley, the monastery was one of the earliest religious and colonising centres. The present-day hermitage was built in the 16th century between Esles and Lloreda. It consists of a single nave with a rectangular apse. Inside is a 17th-century Baroque altarpiece in the Neoclassical style. The monastery's history and the hermitage's later architectural history can thus be distinguished as two separate historical layers.
Another building is the Casona de Don Marcial Solana, in the La Portilla neighbourhood of Esles, in Santa MarĂa de CayĂłn. It has a hipped roof and a south-facing ashlar façade. The ground floor has a segmental arch; on the upper floor are two balcony-like galleries. Projecting window grilles and a large entrance portal complete the façade, with a family coat of arms crowning the portal. A broad, continuous balcony runs along the east-facing façade. These details give the building several distinct aspects, rather than describing it only in terms of its size or a single decorative feature.
Regional Cuisine and Finding Accommodation
Esles also has a regional culinary identity: the town lies in the heart of the Valles Pasiegos, the home of the sobao pasiego. Originally, it was made with butter from cows of the native Pasiega breed. The sobao thus reflects a tradition of the Valles Pasiegos, while the churches, the Casona and the architectural examples described above are concrete points of interest in Esles and Lloreda.
The buildings and the circular route offer different starting points for planning a trip. You can choose Esles as a place to stay based on the things you would like to discover there.
Discover more destinations: Ongayo, Somahoz, Valle, Luriezo, Ramales De La Victoria, San Sebastián de Garabandal, Viérnoles, Quintana
For the full travel guide: Cantabria.
