Vivar del Cid brings together the literary history of the Cid, a recognised historic site, church art and the beginning of the Camino del Cid. The landscape along the River Ubierna and several monuments also help reveal the town’s diverse cultural heritage.
Cid history and different routes
On 25 August 1993, Vivar del Cid was recognised as a Bien de Interés Cultural in the “historic site” category by Decree 203/1993. The Camino del Cid begins in the town. Its connection to the legend dates back to the Cantar de Mio Cid: according to the epic poem, the Cid set out from here into exile and was ordered to leave Castile. The actual starting point of the route and the literary tradition therefore sit side by side, although they are not the same kind of claim.
Two specific details are useful for the El Destierro route: the walking route runs from Vivar del Cid in the province of Burgos to Atienza in the province of Guadalajara. The road cycling version, on the other hand, includes a 12-kilometre prologue stage from Vivar to Burgos. These are different route details and destinations, which you can keep in mind when choosing the focus of your trip or activities.
Another signposted and explained cultural itinerary follows the final journey of Charles V towards Extremadura and includes Vivar del Cid. The townscape thus features historical stories beyond its connection to the Cid.
Church and archaeological traces
The Iglesia de San Miguel Arcángel was built in the Flamboyant Gothic style and also features Renaissance and Baroque elements. Excavations at the church uncovered a necropolis dating from the 11th to the 13th century. The architecture and archaeological evidence tell of different periods.
There is also a heavily worn baptismal font with a Romanesque appearance at the entrance to the Iglesia de San Miguel. Its origins are unknown. This open question is part of the object’s story: its appearance can be described, but its provenance cannot be established with certainty.
The Ubierna valley and Cid monuments
Vivar del Cid lies in the valley of the River Ubierna. Several grain mills were built along the river, probably belonging to Rodrigo’s family. A former water tank has been converted into a viewpoint. The river, historic mills and repurposed structure show different aspects of the local landscape.
The Cid statue on Calle del Destierro was created by Valencian artist Francisco Catalá Blanes. He handed the mould over to the Junta Vecinal de Vivar in 1963. The Monumento al Cid Campeador is a separate work: the sculptural ensemble consists of a life-size bronze statue, a pool of water and a limestone block bearing the silhouettes of two horsemen.
Beside an old mill, a sculptural monument bearing the inscription “Legua Cero” symbolically marks the start of the route. The small Cid Museum, Molino del Cid, is located at Legua 0 in Vivar del Cid; if you plan to visit, check in advance whether it is open to visitors.
Convents, the manuscript and planning your visit
The Convento de Santa Clara was founded at the end of the 15th century and kept the manuscript of the Cantar de Mio Cid. The chest in which the manuscript was kept is in the Convento de Nuestra Señora del Espino. The convent also houses a Gothic polychrome wooden image of Santa Clara dating from 1251.
Access to the convent that houses the chest containing the Cantar is restricted. Call ahead to check whether a visit is possible. This helps you plan around this historical site without assuming it is open for unrestricted visits.
Getting between Vivar del Cid and Burgos
For the return journey between Vivar del Cid and Burgos, ALSA offers a fairly extensive service from Monday to Sunday. Check the relevant timetable before travelling. Alongside the Camino del Cid’s starting point and the different details for the walking and road cycling routes, this connection helps you plan your journey separately from the focus of your stay.
For the broader travel overview: Quintanilla Vivar.
