In Páganos, local history and festival traditions come together with a Dolmen Route that passes through the village. Each topic raises different planning questions: Which buildings tell the story of its past, when does the San Blas festival take place, and how long is the circular route? Keeping these aspects separate can help you plan your stay around your interests and the time available.
Local history and architecture
Páganos was established as a settlement in the 11th century, around 1076. The Casona de Juan Ortiz de Zárate connects architectural history with writing: the building is made of reddish stone, and its coat of arms bears the inscription “El mundo es ansí”. The same phrase is the title of a novel by Baroja. The stone, coat of arms and literary reference offer different starting points for understanding the Casona.
The Casona’s name is also linked to the life of Juan Ortiz de Zárate: he was secretary of the Inquisition in Zaragoza, later an inquisitor in Cartagena (Peru), and bishop of Salamanca. The Church of the Assumption dates from the 16th century and features a Renaissance portal. The medieval origins of the settlement and a 16th-century building thus offer distinct historical points of reference.
The former hermitage of San Clemente was a co-patron of Páganos; the image of Saint Clement is kept in the parish church of Páganos. Another historic site is the Hermitage of Santiago at the eastern entrance to the village. After Navaridas separated from Laguardia, the region’s hidalgos held their meetings there. Today, the hermitage has been deconsecrated and is owned by one of the local wineries.
San Blas and festival traditions
San Blas Day is celebrated in Páganos on the Sunday closest to 3 February. The exact festival day therefore depends on the day of the week, and the program may vary. The celebrations include the Chulalai dance and kissing the saint’s relic. Food is also part of the tradition: loaves called “cachetes”, rosquillas and puff pastries are brought to be blessed. If you want to plan your trip around San Blas, check the exact festival date before making arrangements.
In Páganos, Saint Clement’s feast day is associated with 23 November. The dates follow different conventions: San Blas falls on a Sunday in early February, while Saint Clement’s day is tied to a specific date in November.
The Dolmen Route and getting around
The “Ruta de los Dólmenes de Rioja Alavesa” passes through Páganos. It is an unmarked circular route measuring 53.22 kilometres and includes eight dolmens. The distance gives you a sense of its scope; because the route is unmarked, check your navigation before setting off.
The Dolmen of San Martín can be reached via a 400-metre detour before Páganos. It is also located about 300 metres from the A124, in the direction of Laguardia. These two distances describe different things: 400 metres is the detour to the dolmen, while about 300 metres describes its location from the road in the direction of Laguardia. This allows you to use the access details for the individual dolmen and the longer circular route as separate points of reference when planning.
Discover more destinations: Samaniego, Hueto Arriba, Manurga, Campezo / Kanpezu, Oion, Elburgo/Burgelu, Amurrio, Bilar
For the broader travel overview: Alava.
