An entrance shaped like an open mouth, imposing masks, and buildings with very different floor plans: Chicanná was a small ancient city and home to the elite. Visitors considering a trip here will encounter not just individual façades, but a settlement with its own history and distinctive architecture.

Masks and Architectural Forms in Chicanná

Structure II, in the eastern part of the plaza, is particularly striking. The one-story building stands on a small platform; its central façade features a large mask of Itzamná, regarded as a creator god in Maya mythology. The entrance is also shaped like a mouth. Teeth, nose, crossed eyes, forehead, and ear ornaments create the impression of a gigantic face with its mouth open. The sides are decorated with cascades of Chaac masks made of stone mosaic. These were covered with stucco and painted in several colors, predominantly a vivid red. Remnants of red and blue stucco, as well as Maya glyphs, have also survived.

The description of Structure II can be expanded with specific architectural details: the building has eight rooms and preserves remnants of its roof comb. The façade combines a large Itzamná mask with Chaac masks on the sides; the number of rooms and surviving architectural features also reveal other aspects of the building. This distinction is useful when visiting: the masks shape the overall impression, while the floor plan and roof comb make other architectural features visible.

Plaza, City History, and the Río Bec Context

Plaza A was the main plaza of Chicanná. Public events of a civic and ceremonial nature took place there; the plaza was also reserved for gatherings of the privileged population of the ancient Maya city. This historical role places the plaza within the life of the settlement, without associating it with events today.

Human settlement at Chicanná began in the Late Preclassic period, which spans 400 BCE to 250 CE, and continued until around 1100 CE. The pre-Hispanic settlement was a suburb of Becán. The buildings in its center were arranged in small groups, and several structures were built in more than one phase. The architecture and associated ceramics also point to the Río Bec tradition. In the Río Bec region, Chicanná is counted among the archaeological city-states, together with Becán and El Hormiguero.

Comparing Structures I and XX

Structure I is an elongated building on the west side of the main plaza. It contains two rows of three rooms each, as well as two rooms on the sides. Two large towers with rounded corners flank the building; they were decorated with frontal masks. False stairways lead to false temples. The layout thus combines rooms, side towers, and architectural forms representing temples.

Structure XX differs in its nearly square floor plan and two levels: the lower level has eleven rooms, and the upper one has four. In the lower rooms, benches are decorated with rosettes framing human faces. Both levels of the main façade each have a fully zoomorphic portal. The upper level ends at the sides in cascades of three-dimensional Chaac masks and was crowned by a roof comb. Remnants of partially preserved zoomorphic portals are visible on the side and rear façades. An interior staircase branches off to the side, providing access to the upper rooms from outside the building. The comparison highlights the different solutions found within Chicanná: Structure I is defined by its towers and false stairways, while Structure XX is distinguished by its levels, portals, and room layout.

Getting There and Finding Your Way Around

The Chicanná archaeological zone is located at kilometer 141 of Federal Highway 186, which connects Escárcega in Campeche with Chetumal in Quintana Roo. The central area lies 500 meters south of the highway. An unpaved road, passable year-round, leads to the INAH entrance ticket booth. Check road and transport conditions before your trip. It is possible to arrive by public transportation; visitors must then walk to the entrance. Factor this walk into your plans for getting around.

The archaeological zone has a visitor center, a parking lot, and restroom facilities. Since their availability may change, check before your visit. If you’re looking for a hotel in Chicanná, you can first decide whether the archaeological zone is the main focus of your trip; the site’s varied architectural forms and history offer a concrete point of reference.

Discover more destinations: Campeche, Isla Aguada, Seybaplaya, Santo Domingo Keste, Ciudad Del Carmen, Escárcega, Champotón, Tenabo.

Back to the main travel overview: Campeche.