Structures, trails, and dark skies
San Juan County is home to the Square Tower Unit and the Cajon Unit of Hovenweep National Monument. Hovenweep is an International Dark Sky Park and the first Dark Sky Park to span two states. The hiking trails also make their own mark: they are laid out around the structures and offer sweeping views of the surrounding area.
Another dark-sky first is associated with Natural Bridges National Monument: it was the first designated International Dark Sky Park. The paved, nine-mile loop road leads to viewpoints and trailheads. Short paths from the road lead to viewpoints of the bridges and to Horse Collar Ruin. The two special designations therefore differ in what they signify: Hovenweep was the first Dark Sky Park to span two states; Natural Bridges was the first designated International Dark Sky Park.
Trails and changing conditions
In Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park, the Wildcat Trail is 1.5 miles long. This is distinct from the 17-mile loop drive in the park: during the monsoon season, it features very difficult terrain and deep sand dunes.
The San Juan River offers another perspective on the landscape. It flows through a series of wild canyons and is popular with visitors for river trips. A permit is required year-round for river trips on any section between Montezuma Creek and Clay Hills. If you are planning a trip, include the permit and the rules for your intended section in your preparations.
Grand Gulch is a Wilderness Study Area managed by the Bureau of Land Management and part of the Cedar Mesa Special Recreation Management Area. Hiking and backpacking are popular ways to see Ancestral Puebloan cliff dwellings and rock art in a natural setting. A permit is required for hiking and backpacking in Grand Gulch. This makes planning a trip there different from taking a short trail with a stated loop distance: here, the permit is part of the planning from the outset.
Rock art and landforms
Butler Wash Ruins includes residential, storage, and ceremonial structures, including four kivas. The round trip to the ruins is one mile long and takes about half an hour.
Cedar Mesa sandstone monoliths, rock pinnacles, and other geological formations shape the landscape of Valley of the Gods. Wind and water have eroded these formations over millions of years. The 17-mile loop runs along a graded gravel and clay road designated San Juan County Road No. 242. It has several sharp turns and crosses multiple washes. Since road conditions vary with the weather, it is worth checking them before setting out.
Newspaper Rock features depictions from several cultural periods, dating from 1,500 years ago to this century. Visitor facilities include restrooms and extensive paved parking, including pull-through spaces for larger vehicles and RVs.
Dark Canyon offers a contrast between access and scenery: the Sundance Trail is the main access route into the lower part of the canyon. In the northern part of the Wilderness Study Area, year-round streams flow for more than ten miles through a series of travertine pools and waterfalls. These features are specifically found in the northern part of the area. Conditions on unpaved roads can change after rain, so check them before driving to the access point.
Discover more destinations: Blanding, Monticello, Spanish Valley, Oljato-Monument Valley, Mexican Hat, La Sal, Summit, Beaver County.
For the broader travel overview: Utah.
