In the middle valley of the Río Saja, in the heart of the Parque Natural Saja-Besaya, lies the municipality of Cabuérniga in Cantabria. Near Valle, the alluvial valley plain widens considerably. Here, historic townscapes meet a cultural landscape whose houses, gardens, meadows and forests together shape the character of the place. When planning your trip, it is worth taking in both the buildings and the paths through the landscape.
Valle and its cultural landscape
Valle has been protected as a Historic Ensemble since 2004. It comprises more than a collection of individual buildings: the traditional landscape includes houses and gardens in the districts, Mies plots divided by dry-stone walls, as well as pastures and native forests. The walls give the open spaces a visible structure; houses and gardens connect the townscape with the surrounding landscape. Those interested in rural cultural landscapes will therefore find not only historic architecture here, but also its relationship with the land around the settlement.
One inscription provides a specific indication of its age: the Casa en El Ricote preserves an inscription dating the house to the 18th century. The Iglesia de San Pedro stands on a small hill overlooking Valle. The church contains Baroque altarpieces from the 18th century. The Ayuntamiento–Antigua Cárcel, meanwhile, still preserves prison cells dating from the 16th century. These details show different aspects of the architectural heritage without implying that they share a common period of construction.
Architectural styles and memories
Other houses offer further perspectives on Cabuérniga’s architectural history. The floor plan and structure of the Casa de Don Augusto González Linares are reminiscent of medieval defensive towers. A plaque on the house commemorates a meeting in 1875 between Augusto González Linares, Francisco Giner de los Ríos, Manuel Ruíz de Quevedo and Nicolás Salmerón; the four are considered the founders of the Institución Libre de Enseñanza.
The Casa del Castellano comprises two houses. One of them features a round arch belonging to a former single-storey house from the 16th century. The Hilera de La Fonda offers a different perspective on the passage of time: its three houses differ in age and style, illustrating the development of the typical montañes house from the 16th century to the present day. The solana of the Casona de los Torales retains an original carving featuring castanet motifs. Despite its poor state of preservation, the Casona de Rubín de Celis is considered one of the finest examples of Baroque manor houses in Cabuérniga.
Walking through the Mies plots
The linear Ruta de las Mieses connects Sopeña with Renedo. Over 3.8 kilometres, it passes through the Mies plots of Valle, Terán and Selores; along the way, you can see grazing livestock and several historic town ensembles. The route is waymarked along its entire length. For planning, its linear course and different start and end points are particularly important: if you are fitting the walk into your day, take both endpoints into account. This distinguishes the route from a circular walk that starts and finishes in the same place, without assuming any particular return transport option.
The CA-182 also provides a route for your onward journey: from Valle, the road crosses the Collada de Carmona into the Nansa Valley. Road conditions can change, so check them before setting out. The municipality thus offers two distinct perspectives: historic townscapes and a linear route through meadows and several districts.
Autumn events in Valle
La Campaná is celebrated in Valle on the second Sunday in October and marks the end-of-summer return of livestock from the mountain pastures. The Feria de Valle takes place on 22 October in Valle de Cabuérniga and features cattle, horses, sheep and goats. The two events offer different insights into local traditions: one is associated with the livestock return, while the other is a fair featuring four animal species. If you would like to plan your trip around one of these events, check the date in advance.
Discover more destinations: Selores, Torrelavega, Barros, Casamaría, Piélagos, Limpias, Udías, Villafufre.
For the broader travel overview: Cantabria.
