Kathmandu Durbar Square is located in Basantapur, in the heart of the Old Town. Palaces, courtyards and temples from the Malla period define the square. Its layout across two courtyards helps you take in the complex in greater detail: the outer courtyard includes Kasthamandap, Kumari Ghar and the Shiva-Parvati Temple; the inner courtyard includes Hanuman Dhoka and the main palace. This brings different architectural points of interest together: courtyard spaces, temples and palace buildings.
Old Town, Temples and Royal History
The Akash-Bhairav Temple is located at Indra Chowk. Its three-storey structure has tiled roofs and a hanging balcony. Gilded, latticed windows and an ornately designed entrance complete its distinctive exterior. These details suggest what to look for in the building: roof shapes, façade design and the entrance.
The Tribhuvan Museum in Hanuman Dhoka Palace at Kathmandu Durbar Square commemorates the life of King Tribhuvan (1906–1955). He contributed to the country’s liberation from the Rana regime. A gallery in the Hanuman Dhoka Museum displays rare photographs and paintings of other Shah rulers, as well as photographs of a king’s funeral. The museum thus connects the story of a particular life with images of the royal family.
Dharahara Tower is another of Kathmandu’s notable structures. It is 50.5 metres tall and was built in 1832 by the prime minister at the time, Bhimsen Thapa. These details give the tower its own historical point of reference, alongside the Malla-period complexes and the commemoration of Tribhuvan.
Indra Jatra: Processions and Evening Scenes
Indra Jatra begins with the raising of a pinewood pole at Basantapur Square, in front of the old Hanuman Dhoka Palace. During the festival, Kumari’s chariot is taken in procession through Kathmandu’s main streets. The two customs have different emphases: the pole marks the start of the festival in the square, while the chariot procession moves through the city streets.
Almost every evening during the festival, masked Lakhay dancers parade through the streets to the sound of loud drums. Around Kathmandu Durbar Square, shrines and old palace buildings glow by the light of oil lamps each night. At Indra Chowk, a large image of Akash Bhairab’s head is also set up outdoors during Indra Jatra, directly opposite his temple. If you want to include the festival in your trip, check the event dates before planning.
A Market Square and Garden as Different Sides of the City
Asan Market Square lies about halfway along Kathmandu’s only diagonal main road, which connects Durbar Square with Durbar Marg. The focus here is on the market: shops sell, among other things, spices, fresh vegetables and kitchenware. The selection at individual shops may change. Asan offers a different view of the city from the palaces and temples at Durbar Square.
The Garden of Dreams is opposite the former royal palace, at the entrance to the Thamel tourist district. The garden was neglected for decades; it preserves the garden heritage created by Kaiser Shumsher. Six freestanding pavilions are each dedicated to and named after one of Nepal’s six seasons. The garden also includes ponds, European-style verandas and houses for various species of birds. The pavilions give the site a clear thematic structure, while the other garden features add further elements.
The different themes can help you choose what to focus on: the courtyards and temples lead to architecture and urban history, while Indra Jatra offers processions and festival customs. Asan draws attention to the goods sold at the daily market, and the Garden of Dreams to its pavilions and garden design. Consider which of these aspects matters most for your trip; if the festival is a deciding factor, include its dates in your plans.
Discover more destinations: Bhaktapur, Panauti, Lalitpur, Sankhu, Budhanilkantha, Thaiba, Madhyapur Thimi, Bungamati.
For the overarching travel overview: Bagmati.
