St. Mary’s is the largest island in the archipelago. Its historical traces range from a fortification begun in 1551 to prehistoric and Roman field systems; at the same time, paths wind through coastal and wetland landscapes. If you’re looking for a destination with heritage, birdwatching and activities on the water, you’ll find several distinct highlights here.
Fortifications and Archaeological Traces
The defences of The Garrison have a 350-year history. Harry’s Walls are part of a fortification whose construction began in 1551 during the reign of King Edward VI. Ennor Castle is the only medieval castle on the Isles of Scilly. Together, these sites reveal different chapters in the island’s history, from fortifications to a medieval castle.
In the north-western part of St. Mary’s, the monument on Halangy Down and Carn Morval Down includes prehistoric to Roman field systems. A settlement on the lower slope of Halangy Down provides evidence of everyday life among the Romano-British population. Bant’s Carn is a prehistoric entrance grave on the south-western ridge of Halangy Down. At Peninnis Head, a monument includes an underground, walled passage dating from the Iron Age to the Romano-British period, known as a fogou.
Paths and Access
A circular route around The Garrison offers views of seascapes. Garrison Walls are best reached on foot or by bike via steep, winding roads. Access to Harry’s Walls is via an uphill footpath; it, too, is best reached on foot or by bike. The access routes therefore differ in the way described: steep, winding roads for one and an uphill footpath for the other.
Peninnis Head can be reached from several points on St. Mary’s: from the allotments beside Porthcressa, from King Edward’s Road behind the health centre on Church Road, and from Old Town. King Edward’s Road is considered the most accessible route. As path conditions can vary, check them before setting out.
Wetlands, Coast and Beaches
At Higher Moors & Porth Hellick Pool, two bird hides overlook the main pond. There is a path, a circular route and a boardwalk through the wetland for exploring the area; paths also lead through damp woodland. Other paths run along the pebble shores, while others lead to the beach. The different routes and hides offer different ways to experience this area.
Peninnis Head has several paths through gorse and heathland, including one leading to the lighthouse at the tip of the headland. A longer coastal walk covers a different distance: walking the entire coast of St. Mary’s takes around 9 or 10 miles, depending on the tides.
Porthcressa is one of the most accessible beaches from Hugh Town. The beach is used for sunbathing, stand-up paddleboarding and wild swimming; water conditions vary. Town Beach by the quay is a good place to look for beachcombing finds. Kayaks and dinghies can also be hired on St. Mary’s to explore quieter spots around the island. Availability and operators may vary seasonally.
Boat Connections and Island Planning
The St. Mary’s Boatmen’s Association connects the islands by water and is a group of ten independent boat operators. For the main season from May to September, the Association intends to run services daily; timetables vary with the tides, weather and passenger numbers. Check the timetable before travelling. Boat tickets can be bought at the quay on St. Mary’s or at the tourist information centre at Porthcressa Beach; ticket arrangements may change.
Another way to get your bearings on the island is to take an Island-Rover bus tour, which runs twice a day from Holgate’s Green during the season, except on Sundays. As timetables may change, check the latest times before making plans. This lets you weigh up the described access routes to historic sites, paths through different landscapes and activities on the water without combining these distinct types of outing into a single itinerary.
Discover more destinations: Tresco, Hugh Town.
Return to the main travel overview: Isles of Scilly.
