Morwenstow on the north coast of Cornwall combines opportunities for coastal and inland walks with tangible traces of church and maritime history. Its varied highlights can help with trip planning: at Duckpool, the beach and cliffs shape the landscape; the Tidna Valley is known for its large population of Large Blue butterflies; and Morwenstow’s church and figurehead tell stories from different eras.
Church and Maritime History
The oldest parts of the Church of St Morwenna and St John the Baptist in Morwenstow date from the 12th century. Its furnishings include a granite font from the early Norman period. Above the altar, the reredos features a triptych of engravings of the Crucifixion by John Baptist Jackson, as well as a red-chalk drawing of John the Baptist by Giovanni Battista Piazzetta. The church’s architectural history and artworks give it a distinctive place in the history of the village.
About eight metres west of the church’s lych gate stands a carved wooden figure known as the Ships Figurehead About 8 Metres West of the Lych Gate of the Church of St Morwenna. It depicts the Caledonia from the early 19th century and commemorates her captain and crew. The ship from Arbroath was wrecked off Morwenstow in 1842; one person survived. The figure thus links a specific object with the story of the disaster, without the need for a whole maritime museum.
Hawker’s Hut and Local Tradition
Hawker’s Hut stands on a clifftop and was built by Reverend Hawker in 1843. Ship’s timbers were used in its construction, and the roof is made of turf. The unusual combination of materials clearly sets the little hut apart from the historic features in the church and offers another glimpse into Morwenstow’s past. The Harvest Festival tradition was also revived in 1843; this historical connection adds to the village’s architectural and maritime history.
Walking Between the Coast and the Tidna Valley
The Morwenstow circular walk is a three-mile circular route along the coast and through the Tidna Valley. The route therefore links two different landscapes in one loop. The valley is home to a large population of Large Blue butterflies. For those who choose walks by their route type, this is a circular walk that takes in both the coast and the valley; route details may change, so it is worth checking the latest information before setting out.
Duckpool offers a different starting point for planning: this secluded beach has rock pools and is backed by cliffs. There are opportunities for coastal and inland walks, including a circular walk through the valley. Another section is the South West Coast Path from Duckpool to St Morwenna’s. It is a more challenging coastal route; in suitable weather, views extend from Padstow to Lundy. The rock pools and coastal views describe different aspects of this landscape, while the route section is distinguished above all by its more challenging profile. Weather and trail conditions may be relevant when planning.
The Tamara Coast to Coast Way, also known as the Tamara Way, is on a very different scale: the walking route is 87 miles long and ends in Morwenstow, on Cornwall’s picturesque north coast, overlooking the wild Atlantic. The three-mile circular walk and the 87-mile long-distance trail represent different scales of walking; the Tamara Way’s endpoint also makes Morwenstow a clearly designated destination on the route.
Plan Your Journey
Go Cornwall Bus route 217 runs from Bude via Morwenstow to Gooseham. Check the timetable before travelling, and check the latest route information before a walk. This lets you factor the bus connection and planned route into your day without treating the various walking options as a fixed itinerary. When looking for a hotel in Morwenstow, the church, coast and named walking routes offer concrete clues to the kinds of discoveries you might want to focus on during your trip.
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For the main travel overview: Cornwall.
